Where are the official details located?
http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=24_Channel_Renard_with_SSR_Assembly_Instructions
The BOM does not have a 1uF capacitor, but the silkscreen shows a 1uF capacitor. Which is right?
The 1uF capacitor marked on the board isn't needed at all. That spot can be left empty.
The BOM shows 3 of the 78-1N5239B, but on the silkscreen I only find one place for a 1N5239, and one place for a 1N5229. Which is right?
The 1N5239 works fine in both spots.
Which holes, square or round, are positive on the LED's?
Square is negative for the LEDs.
Is there any polarity on the .1uF capacitors?
No Polarity
What is the "T" terminal for on the 4 position input block?
NOT NORMALLY USED IN THE USA.
The "T" input is for some people that build the board overseas and use a 24 VAC or 36 VAC transformer off the board - they input the voltage here.
If you do use 24 VAC or 36 VAC input voltage here, be sure to set the "Transformer Power On / Off" jumper to OFF.
The only time I can see people using this in the USA is when running the board off of 12 VAC to power MR-16 LED Floodlights. See Below.
Why are there 2 "H" terminals on the 4 position input block?
Each "H" terminal powers one side of 12 channels. If you have big loads, you can run 2 separate circuits to the board, 1 for each side.
If you are going to run everything from 1 input cable / circuit, you have to put a jumper between the 2 "H" Terminals.
What is the purpose of the "Transformer Power On / Off" jumper?
As above, if you are outside of the USA, and input the power on the "T" input, you also set this jumper to off.
SET THIS TO ON IF YOU ARE USING 120 VAC OR 240 VAC as the input voltage.
SET TO OFF FOR 24 VAC or 36 VAC operation.
What is the purpose of the "Zero Cross On / Off" jumper?
This is a funny label - ZC is actually always on on the board, this jumper is actually for passing ZC out of the COMM OUT jack.
NORMAL SETTING WOULD BE OFF - You only need it on if there is a board after this Renard 24 that does not generate it's own ZC such as a
Renard 64.
What if I need extra power, and run 2 separate 120VAC Circuits to the Renard 24, 1 for the left 12 and 1 for the right 12, and they are out of phase from one another. Tying the neutrals together gives me 120 VAC from the "N" to either one of the "H" and 240 VAC across both "H"'s. Do I set the jumpers for 120 VAC or 240 VAC in this case?
You still set it to 120 VAC in this case, as the transformer only pulls it's power from the left side, and that side has 120 VAC.
What if I want to run the Renard 24 off of 12 VAC so I can run things like the MR-16 Floods?
In this case, you would run 12 VAC into the Hots and Neutral, and leave the transformer off all together.
You will have to jumper 2 wires across the top 2 sets of holes in the transformer section. Pin 1 to Pin 5, and Pin 2 to Pin 6.
The voltage select jumpers would be set to 120 VAC.
The "Transformer Power" jumper will be set to "On"
The 180 ohm resistors at the Triac gates will have to be replaced with 18 ohm resistors.
A 22 ohm resistor will also go in series with each MR-16.
What is the correct pinout for the Renard 24 Version 3.0 Cable?
DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45 Pins 1, 2, and 5
DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45 Pin 4
What is the correct pinout for the Renard 24 Version 2.5 Cable?
DB9 Pin 3 to RJ45-pin 5
DB9 Pin 5 to RJ45-pins 1, 2, and 4
What is the best way to make these cables?
You basically have 2 options:
1. You can cut off one end of a patch cable and solder it to a female DB9 connector making a custom cable.
2. Best Option - You can get a RJ45 to DB9 Female adapter and not have to cut anything, and use any straight thru patch cable.
The Green, Red, Orange, & Blue colors are there because that is what the adapters I bought used - double check yours.
Click HERE for pictures of both.
What if I'm using a RS-232 to RS-485 converter?
The pinout is RJ45 Pin 5 to A+, and RJ45 Pin 4 to B-.
Are there any tips for building the Renard 24?
I have 3 main tips that will make it easier for you:
1. Always start with the shortest components first (Shortest from the surface of the board) and work to the taller ones.
By doing this, parts don't fall out of the holes when you flip the board over to solder. Start with the small diodes, then resistors, then sockets, etc...
2. Fuse Clips - there are 2 things you need to be aware of here:
A - They have a very small indent on one side - very easy to miss! You want to have the indents on the outside edge of the fuse! This keeps the
fuse centered, and won't let it slide out of the end. If you put it in backwards, the fuse holder will spread out very wide, and make it
dangerously close to the common negative bar - really bad if you are using spade connectors instead of screw terminals.
B. - They are too wide for the holes on the board - Bend the prongs in with needle nose pliers, insert one side all the way in and the other side will
just touch the top of the second hole. Place the board on a hard surface, and press down really hard on the side that is sticking up with the
pliers or a screwdriver blade, and it will pop in nice and tight.
3. You will have to nibble off the bottoms of the heat sink fins so that they clear / do not come in contact with the H1AA1 on the left and the
bridge rectifier on the right.